Life's oscillations
This post was written once, and lost in the intertubes. So this will be short, with photographs.
For the 24th, we borrowed Rafael and a van from Rolantours. He was an excellent chauffeur who dropped us first at Mitla, where our tour guide explained the lovely geometric Zapotec designs as evoking "life's oscillations". Memorable.
I think, reviewing photos of Mitla in the tour books, that our inexperienced guide may have missed a whole important area of the site, but we forgive him anyway - this was our d-it-yourself tour with GMcOke as guide. Part of Mitla archaeology is within the existing church, all itself within a not well-to-do village, seemingly hard living town.
After Mitla Rafael drove us to Yagul. It was stupendous, our favorite, up a hill, no town remaining, great 360 degree views. Mr McOke easily found his way through the maze; AMillPat looked romantic and rugged against the clouds.
At Teotitlan we saw more oscillating patterns, with the pequeno Isaac Vasquez helping us see how difficult the yarn carding, the spinning, the dyeing work is, and then asking us "would you like to see my family's work?" Of course. And of course, we got a bolsa, a rug, two pillow cases. Featuring the Zapotec patterning. Score!
We then went to El Tule, eating at the restaurant of the same name. We butchered Espanol but Rafael generously encouraged us, talking about his three hijos and cultural differences, for example, that in Mexico people drink with amigos, not really with meals; and the 30 ingredients in his grandmother's mole. We passed around the engilsh/spanish dictionary and discovered translations for Raisins and Souvenir.
After siesta Mr McOke brilliantly hosted us on the rooftop terrace, for a christmas eve toast of mezcal. Our tourist dinner on the zocalo was mediocre at best, but around us were enthusiastic processions, with giant dancing puppets, horn bands, fireworks, dancing and children posed on the back of trucks, replete with pull on beards, evoking the nativity. We noticed that tonight, not like the night of the Rabanos, there were few armed guards or policia....everything festive and friendly.
As we returned to the B&B through Santo Domingo plaza we saw a puzzling site: clay figures, full sized, seeming to be decaying, lined in the plaza. A puzzle still.
Feliz Navidad!



